This post is an update from the Henro free/budget lodging list that I had compiled back in 2015 because information at the time was hard to find online, but more readily available after I started meeting other henro on the road. The henro whom I exchanged lists with spoke Japanese, so the information sometimes differed from the English ones, which is why I compiled them. This updated accommodations and lodging list is not necessarily exhaustive, but I have added more information based on information received from pilgrims after 2015. I also have an upcoming FAQ for notes I’ve included for solo female travellers, based on the considerations I usually factor in for my trips.

This post includes:

  1. Tips for Finding Places to Say
  2. A Friendly Request from Shikoku Locals & Ryokan Owners
  3. Useful Henro Lodging Terms
  4. Henro Lodging List
  5. Additional Sources
  6. Photos for Nojuku Henro, Zenkonyado & Tsuyado

1. Tips for Finding Places to Stay

Shikoku temple Tsuyado
One of the best temple tsuyado that I stayed at.

Bring a Print Copy of This List (in a plastic bag)
With smartphones and cheap data plans available now, travelling in Japan is much easier than a few years ago. Nonetheless, I do not recommend that you rely only on your smartphone. It can die daily during long walks. You can save this article in your offline reader, such as ‘Pocket‘, which is one of the 10 apps to travel Japan I suggest. I also suggest printing a copy of this and putting it in a plastic bag (with your passport and some cash) in case it rains.

Share Tips with Other Henro
Other henro are like your weather forecast. They tell you about route updates, where to eat, and whether a tsuyado is still open. Doing thorough research is important, but don’t think of this trip as something you have to do alone. Greet the people you meet, offer information to help others, and listen to what they have to say. Often, people will ask you if you have a sheet of paper and write or draw information for you.

Learning a Few Japanese Words Opens Dozens of Doors
Shikoku has changed a lot since I went in 2015, but it is still the Japanese countryside and little English is spoken. Speaking some Japanese shows a willingness on your part to learn a bit about the local culture, which in turn, helps locals feel more confident about hosting you. Local ryokan owners want to ensure that you can have a comfortable stay and that there are no cultural misunderstandings or conflicts, which is often why they may hesitate to host someone from abroad. Download an offline dictionary and translation app. Also use Duolingo and learn a few words, especially ones related to directions, food, time, common courtesies, and making reservations. People are friendly and willing to go out of their way to help, so make it easier for yourself by having the right words on hand. I have prepared a list of lodging-related words in the section below for you to point to.


2. A Friendly Request from Shikoku Locals & Ryokan Owners

A ryokan in Shikoku
The ryokan I stayed at before walking to Cape Ashizuri

Since writing my blog in 2015, I have been contacted by travel professionals and ryokan owners. Some ryokans have closed their doors to foreign visitors because of past experiences. I’d like to believe these incidences were unintentional and cultural misunderstandings, but please take the time to respect etiquette by:

  • NEVER not showing up for your booking (phone to cancel by noon)
  • Always give notice if you must cancel or will be late (arriving after 5pm). The honour system in Japan is that 24-hour no-shows are are still paid for in full.
  • Cleaning up wherever you go and stay — even at a ryokan you paid for
  • At tsuyados, make sure you put all the bedding back and follow clear instructions by temple staff

Ryokans are small businesses and the families have to prepare meals and stay up worrying about guests who don’t show up. I’ve been informed several times of this and it is cited as the main reason some ryokans have given up serving foreign visitors. If you are making reservations, please learn to some Japanese. If you do not want meals, you can say ‘sudomari onegaishimasu’ rather than rejecting a meal after arriving. Please be considerate of local practices to ensure future pilgrims can also enjoy the same things you have. Thank you!


3. Useful Henro Lodging Terms

Ishite-ji, Matsuyama Tsuyado
A massive prayer hall tsuyado at Ishite-ji in Matsuyama.

Tsūyadō 通夜堂 — Free lodging for pilgrims provided by temples, usually huts or other buildings in temple compounds. Arrive before 5:00pm and ask the temple. Phone ahead during peak seasons (around March – May, October – November). Most temples do not allow mixed gender lodgings and only have one room.

Zenkonyado 善根宿 — Free/cheap lodging provided by locals for pilgrims.

Zenninyado 善人宿 — Lodging offered to pilgrims in someone’s home

Michi no Eki 道の駅 — Roadside stations with washrooms, gift shops, and usually a small restaurant to serve highway truck drivers and coach buses. Shops close at night, but toilets are usually open 24/7. Listed ones have outdoors rest area with a roof for more comfortable camping.

Henro Goya 遍路小屋・へんろ小屋 — Henro huts. There are over 50 built by local communities. There is a list with a map here ヘンロ小屋の案内 and I think JPilgrim at the bottom of this post also has most of them mapped in English.

Daishido 大師堂 — Small shrine buildings. The ones listed in this directory are run by local communities and can be used. If it is not listed here, assume they are not available for sleeping in. As a courtesy, please ask locals before using them. Some have keys. Please clean up all your rubbish and put things away as instructed to ensure they stay open. Some have closed in recent years.

四阿 /東屋 / 休息所 — Rest huts. They are public structures, so make use of them if you feel comfortable.

Unattended Train Stations — These are usually small stations that are just outside small towns. Many will have toilets, though they may not be cleaned regularly.

Minshuku 民宿 — Paid accommodation. Like a small bed & breakfast, these are usually the cheapest paid options. Some listed here have discounted rates for henro. Check out the places in the Henro House directory.

Ryokan 旅館 — Paid accommodation. Also a bed and breakfast, though it could be multi-storey. The term can also be used for small hotels, especially in the Japanese countryside.

Sudomari 素泊まり — Stay without meals at a reduced price for pilgrims. When making a booking, you can also say: ‘Sudomari onegaishimasu’ to make it clear that you only want a room and no meals.


4. Henro Lodging List (Updated 2019)

Shikoku pilgrimage henro hut 81
Henro hut #51 close to Temple #82.

The people who walk the henro are diverse. Some are city dwellers who have only ever slept in the comforts of home and hotels. Others are free spirits who have trekked the Himalayas. After a few years of feedback from readers and fellow henro, I am adding a bit more context to my information to help you better decide what works for you.

Also, I suggest checking out this useful map from JPilgrim.

Some Notes of the Entries in this List

My list comes from English, Japanese, and Chinese sources. The information ranges from 2010-2016. After 2015, more henro huts were being built (at least 55 now). I have not physically verified all of these places and cannot verify their state now, but I have made an effort to add updates sent by other pilgrims. The JPilgrim map seems the most updated. Please try to verify and exchange information with other henro when you start walking.

I have translated Japanese & Chinese information into English. English-only entries below mean that they were not on my Japanese nojuku sheets.

Try searching for Couchsurfing and AirBnB hosts as well. There are more AirBnB listings now than when I was walking and they may be good options.

Places I’ve stayed are in bold. Where possible, I have left comments to give further information as I am a shoestring backpacker. I care about cleanliness more than comfort and power outlets are an optional luxury to me as I didn’t need a smartphone all the time.

Closed locations are on this list, but they are crossed out. I kept the listings in case people have old lists and it is clear that they were not missing from this list, but rather that you should not go to them.

Again, a gentle reminder from local ryokan owners: There have been cases of no-show amongst foreign walking henro. If you decide not to stay, please notify the ryokan and say:

Moshimoshi. Sumimasen. [Your name] desu. Yoyaku kanseru kudasai.’ Kanseru = cancel.

Giving notice if you cannot arrive is basic guest etiquette. I have known of ryokan owners who stay up waiting for their guest to arrive / return. They need to specially prepare your meal for you, so providing notice is out of consideration for their preparation. Your cooperation will help future henro by keeping ryokan doors open to foreign guests. Thanks again!

~ #1鳴門三念庵(鳴門駅徒歩7分)二食付志納金にて
080-3920-5003 松田
Near Naruto Station, Kousouku Naruto etc.: Has display of free lodging from Temples 1-88. Provides car as settai. ¥2000.不二一元アシュラム (鳴門駅・高速鳴門バス停近く)自炊可能 2000円
090-5717-9096 080-1271-4300 湯浅
Fujiichigen. Ashram zenkonyado, near Naruto station, ¥2000, tea & coffee provided as osettai, kitchen available.お四国ゲストハウス(霊山寺南50m)素泊2000円
080-4034-4593岩田
Oshikoku guest house, in front of temple 1, bath/kitchen/internet/bicycle, ¥2000
#5 ~ #6溝渕工務店(県道沿い) 水トイレ 素泊 500円 (Mizobuchi Koumuten construction company). ¥500. (water, toilet)へんろ小屋44号 Henro Hut No.44 Not suitable for sleeping in heavy rain. Water/toilet: No
Temple #6安楽寺通夜堂(釣鐘2階)
Anraku-ji Tsuyado. (2nd floor of bell tower/temple gate with 3-4 pilgrims)
Temple #8通夜堂 Tsuyado. (in parking lot. 3 tatami.)
Temple #10へんろ小屋45号 Henro Hut No.45 after Temple 10 with solar-powered lighting. No water.
#10 ~ #11鴨の湯(藤井寺まで2Km) 水トイレ 男女別 レンタサイクル Kamo no Yu Onsen. 2km before #11. (henro huts, free bicycles, free laundry and a dryer for a small fee, discount on entry to onsen)

 

暁庵あかつきあん(*吉野川市立鴨島第一中学校近く) 1000円
090-3657-7165
Akatsuki-An. The official Japanese list says it’s close to the East Kamajima Fire Station (which moved a few years ago), and therefore is inaccurate. This means that it’s actually closer to the Kamojimadaiichi Junior High School, and I’ve updated the Japanese Kanji too. However, make sure you phone for directions (only if you can speak Japanese).

#11 ~ #12Zenkonyado on the main road just before Ryuusui-an [柳水庵]. Running water. Maybe toilet. Looks very nice as an entirely enclosed building. It looks like it has electricity too. Reportedly fits 4. Has futons & electricity.

 

Karuizawa Leisure Land, small hut, ¥1500. (¥600 with your own tent). Bath available.
すだち館 Is reported to give a ride to an onsen for lodgers.

Temple #12Hut in Mikan Orchard. (ask permission at temple, may not be possible)088-677-0112

 

へんろ小屋36号 Henro Hut 36 near Kanzen-ji. Has water & toilet.

#12 ~ #13道心禅道場(杖杉庵車道徒歩5分) 粗食付 寸志
090-2829-4260
Doushinzen Dojo. 5min walk along car road from Jousan-an, place to stay.すだち館(おへんろ駅そば)二食付3000円
088-677-1180上杉
Iyashi dokoro sudachi-kan. 3km after #12. Men and women in separate rooms. ¥3000 incl 2 meals and rice balls osettai for lunch.Hut. After the bridge at Kamiyama Onsen. Another hut in the parking lot of Kamiya Onsen (one for men, and one for women). Can fit about 2-3 people each. Discount entry for onsen.Abe-san’s Zenkonyado before Nabeiwasou. (Look out for white handwritten signboards.) ¥1000.
#16 ~ #17栄タクシー(観音寺から国道左折すぐ)
088-642-1391
Sakae Taxi. On the 2nd floor of office along Route 6 – mid-point to Temple 17. (Shower available?) Ask. Everyone knows it.
#17井戸寺通夜堂
Tsuyado. It’s a nice little hut in the temple compounds, and I saw an outlet.
#17 ~ #18*地蔵峠越ルート* 地蔵院前四阿 水トイレ
Hut in front of Jizouin. Water and toilet.ビジネス菊乃旅館(徳島駅徒歩7分)素泊3000円 2名利用5000円
090-1033-5125
Business Kikuno Ryokan 7 mins walk from Tokushima station. 1 person is ¥3000, 2 people ¥5000

大鶴旅館 (徳島駅徒歩15分)素泊3000円

088-653-0768
Otsuru Ryokan. 15 mins walk from Tokushima Station. The owner is a very nice elderly lady. She usually gives onigiri as osettai – and they’re big!Covered shelter attached to the train station in the Meisui neighborhood, which is above the area around West Fire Station.しんまち温泉 無料 お接待
Shinmachi Onsen. Can’t stay, but free entry for walking henro.Hut with walls and windows after Katsuura bridge on route 55Henro rest huts in front of Awa Odori Kaikan. (super exposed in a large city – not recommended unless you’re really desperate)
#19 ~ #20JR Tachie Station – unmanned station. (water, toilet)

 

寿康康寿庵(法泉寺バス停横) 法泉寺に挨拶
寿康庵, about 4km from Temple #19. Prefab building, water, toilet, tatami. Look for signs at an abandoned bus stop.

へんろ小屋48号 Henro Hut 48 close to Temple #19
かやぶき遍路小屋(鶴林寺登り車道手前)
Kayabuki Henro Hut. Before the car road up to #20.

Couchsurfers:
You can search for a Japanese couple in ‘Anan City’ or ‘Tokushima City’. They probably will pop up at the top, as they have 40+ positive reviews. They’re a bit off the beaten track, but I guarantee that you will have a wonderful stay with them and their kids. The wife has cycled the henro.

#20 ~ #21小学校跡 水トイレ
At foot of Temple #20. Can camp at school ruins (toilet).先に四阿
Also a hut a little further ahead.
#21 ~ #22Michi-no-eki Wajiki. (toilet, water.)
#22 ~ #23旅荘きくや(キクヤ金物店)軽作業 水トイレ布団洗濯 0884-36-3020
Zenkonyado immediately after Temple #22 at the Kikuyu Metalworks Shop. Light work in exchange for stay. Ask for Kikuya-san.
#23はしもとバス善根宿(薬王寺から2Km)夕食接待
0884-77-0880
Refurbished bus about 2km before #23 on Route 55 (referred to as the Hashimoto Bus). Note that Hashimoto Restaurant is now closed, but the bus is still there. Also, it is just off Route 55, along the river, so ask people in the area or at the temple. (water, toilet, blankets)

— I would remove this due to numerous complaints about Hashimoto, the owner harassing female guests, especially the Japanese ones.Michi-no-Eki Hiwasa.Not recommended, but it has plenty of benches and the handicap toilet has a nifty pull-out bed.

Ashiura Massage
(Ask for Anand), in front of Temple 23.
#23 ~ #24
Mostly in order of appearance.
出羽島ゲストハウス(牟岐港から渡船) 素泊2000円 090-7574-7879西
Mugi Town. Dewashima Guesthouse.Tōrushii Tea settai at Kriya Yoga Practice Hall (Kriya Yoga Taikenchi). 0884-77-2266Tsuyado at Bangai 4, Saba Daishi.Kaifu town. Settai place with lodging. 0884-73-2183Rest place in front of Kaifu Station. (nearby supermarket, water/toilet at station).海部バス停 Kaifu Bus Stop500m先右側大師堂
Also a Daishido about 1km away from Kaifu bus stop.宍喰遍路小屋 Shishikui, Henro hut on stilts by the ocean promenade (Between Shishikui Hotspring and Cafe Hikosen).It’s a lovely place to watch sunrise and sunset.

ひこせん 喫茶店 Cafe Hikosen (no lodging)
– after Shishikui beach and a bridge passing Shishikui port, has coffee and internet as osettai for pilgrims (they are the loveliest people)甲浦バス停 Kannoura Bus Stop津波避難所 Tsunami shelter.東洋大師明徳寺通夜堂 2名
0887-28-1159
Tsuyado at Toyodaishi Meitoku-ji in None, Toyo town. (Fits 2 people Toilet. Water)Sakibama. Various places – bus stop, under the bridge,

 

佐喜浜大師堂(漁協先酒屋向い)
Sakihama Daishido (space for 1-2 people).

三津漁港バス停

#25Muroto Dolphin Center on Toromu site, 4 km after Temple 24. Free Toilet, Water. Pilgrims can shower for 100 yen at the Muroto Dolphin Center during its opening hours. (From Henro Soay Chaiwat Phohom, May 2016)

 

Bridge at beach just before Temple#25. Water from park in front.

#26 ~ #27不動岩バス停 トイレ
Fudoiwa Bus Stop (Toilet)Various places – hut at Kiragawa river.吉良川四阿
Rest place in parking lot of Kiragawa Town Machinami-kan.

Hut just outside Kiragawa Town (吉良川)
, beside a cemetary, facing the sea, along Route 55. (Toilet and water)Michi-no-eki Muroto (there isn’t much here).二十三士温泉前河川敷四阿 Hut in front of the River at Nijyusanshi Onsen加領郷バス停 Karyogo Bus Stops道の駅たの野宿可能 Michi-no-eki Tano.Park and bus stops in Nahari.旅の宿美園 二食付き2500円
090-7579-1281 0887-38-2224山本
Ryonoshuku Bi-en(?), ¥2500 includes 2 meals.
Temple #27神峰寺通夜堂
088738-5495. Tsuyado. Call to confirm availability as it’s on top of a mountain. Toilet. Electricity. Water. Blankets. Only a rest hut. The temple no longer hosts.Updated April 24, 2017 (courtesy of the henro grapevine and David from Randomwire)
#27 ~ #28唐の浜バス停 > 安田明神バス停 (Bus stops)

 

安芸球場前公園四阿 Hut in the park in front of Geisei Field / Ball Courts.
Tosa Kuroshio Railway (Gomen- Nahari line). Can stay the night in the train station building.

善根宿萩森(西分駅近く)男女別
0887-33-3762萩森
Hagimori-san’s zenkonyado near Nishibun Station, Geisei Village. (there are many separate cabins. on a path that runs along the sea). 0887-33-3762. Call ahead. Blankets. Tables. Maybe kitchen. Also has wooden slabs outside.

Konan City YA SEA PARK (close to Yasu Station). Has public toilets and if you arrive early you can probably use the shower area in the sports facilities. It has an amazing sunset and you can probably find a place to stealth camp (either along the beach or on the rooftop patio of one of the new buildings).

香我美遍路小屋(陸上自衛隊駐屯地手前) 水・毛布
Konan City Kagami henro hut. (close to Kagami Station) Water. Blankets.

ウエルプラザ洋寿荘休息所 水・茶
Wellplaza Restaurant (?) Rest Area. Water and refreshments.

#28 ~ #29大日寺通夜堂
Tsuyado Temple 28, right beside the stamp office. Toilet & Water (From Soay Chaiwat Phohom, May 2016)Nishioka zenkonyado. 3km after Monobe River before #29. ¥300.
088-863-3715.
#29 ~ #30蒲原遍路小屋 事務所に声がけ
Kamohara henro hut after Kamohara Post Office or City Offices (water, toilet). Please inform the people in the offices.
#30 ~ #31かつおゲストハウス(高知駅近) 素泊2500円
Katsuo Guest House (Close to Kochi Station)五台山展望台軒下(竹林寺裏)Godaisan viewing platform. (water, toilet at #31)AirBnB listings in Kochi City

石土神社軒先(禅師峰寺手前)
#32Zenkonyado. 088-847-3341.
Temple #33雪蹊寺通夜堂 Tsuyado.
Temple #34種間寺通夜堂 16:30~17:00受付
Tsuyado. Must stamp book, or buy an individual paper stamp.
Temple #35清滝寺通夜堂 男女別可能 Tsuyado. Male & females separate.
#35 ~ #36塚地休息所(塚地トンネル手前) 水トイレ
Hut before Tsukaji Tunnel / mountain path. (water, toilet, vending machines)Kokumin shukusha tosa, ¥2500 dormitory, has a hot spring
#36 ~ #37福島バス停跡(青龍寺打戻り宇佐大橋さき1Km)
Hut on the west side before Usa bridge, opposite the port. It’s a remodeled bus stop after the bridge to #35, before the ferry port. On the left side of the road if walking to #36

須崎遍路小屋 (県道23)
Sakura Gai. Senior home. Before crossing the Usa-hashi bridge to Temple 36. On Route 23, at the right side of the bridge. Opposite Kochi Marine High School. They provided excellent atmosphere for pilgrims. It’s served like a mini-hotel with a living space including TV, kitchen, toilet, and water. They put a sign in front of a parking lot to encourage pilgrims to rest there. (From Soay Chaiwat Phohom, May 2016)

Susaki henro hut. (Route 23)
(walls, spacious raised platform, water, toilet, 2 power outlets and a light). Say hi to the elderly man with the house beside.Plaza near Susaki fire station. (water, toilet)道の駅須崎 Michi-no-eki Susaki.
 かげの駅(無人駅) Kageno Station.

 

Free showers at Yuingu Shimanto.

Michi-no-eki Aguri Kubokawa. (water, toilets)

#37Tsuyado. Hut at back of temple, ask permission.
0880-22-0376.AirBnB Host
close to Shimanto.
Approx 3500 JPY. If you cook, then there’s food in the fridge. Drive to lodgings estate. I had a wonderful stay.
#37 ~ #38
(mostly in order of appearance)
佐賀橘川四阿
Henro Hut around Sagatachibanagawa, close to the gas station. About 10 km after Iwamoto-ji, after you come down the mountain slopes. (Water. Toilet.)土佐佐賀温泉 こぶしのさと四阿
Kobushino Onsen. Henro Hut outside. Discount to Onsen.伊田観音寺(伊田トンネル出口右側) 水トイレ
Kannondo right after Ida Tunnel at Kuroshio Town. I-no-misaki Onsen nearby. (water, electricity)ビオスオガタ道の駅前 遍路小屋
Henro Hut before Bios Ogata Michi no Eki . If you are walking towards #38 along route 56, it will be on your right, on stilts.

Bios Ogata Michi no Eki.
Toilet. Water. Coin showers at the beach. It’s alright, but perhaps a bit exposed for some people. There is a hut behind the building if you prefer more privacy.[Note that after this point, there are 2-3 routes that get down to #38 at Cape Ashizuri. The stops listed below take the coastal route, which is scenic, but has few stops or towns especially after Iburi.]新佐賀温泉 New Saga Hot Spring (Saga-cho)
0880-55-7011古津賀大師堂(古津賀駅先鳥居上る)Daishido before Kotsuka Station.Campground at Shimoda.Tosa Seinan Big Park (Irino Matsubara, Okata-cho) – lots of space – good for campingAfter Nakamura / Shimanto City

竹島大師堂(四万十大橋手前土手沿い)Dashido at Takejima. From Grace’s Description, it sounds like it’s on the left bank of the Shimokawa River, close to the Ohashi (big bridge).寺庵(うどん屋田子作先2Km左)*Actually, not sure where this is, but on the Japanese guide, it’s in the wrong area (check 36 to ~ 37, it should be somewhere between 37 ~ 38).Route 321, around Tsukurabuchi, there are huts just after the bird park.ドライブイン水車 トイレ休息所 四阿 (県道321号)
Route 321 *Hut at Drive-in Suisha in Tosa-shimizu City. (water, toilet)* Note: In July 2015, the hut was taken over by two squatters. The washroom building closer to the drive in has great benches for sleeping, but I think there are signs requesting you not to do so in Japanese. Would not recommend unless you’re really tired.Campground next to a school at Shimonokae. (Near the school, look out for signs at the bridge). (I didn’t find the campground, but I did see the school).下ノ加江: ロッジカメリア (3000円 素泊まり)
0880-84-1377
Shimonokae. Lodge Camellia – I did not stay here, but I heard great things from another fellow henro.

 

じんべい 広場休息所(以布利漁港)Rest area at Iburi Port. (water, toilet, electricity was cut when I visited in 2015 summer). It’s very spacious.Kubotsu Gyoko (Tosa Shimizu city, Kubotsu) – rest place, but get permission

津呂へんろ小屋 無料開放
0880-82-7304.
Kanehira-san’s (legendary) Zenkoyado at Tsuro. Additional ¥500 for dinner.*I’ve heard from henro friends in 2015 that there is a hut in the park that overlooks the sea. It MAY be at the park at the Cape itself, as opposed to the side with the Temple and hotels.*

#38 ~ #39
*Note: I haven’t stayed at any of these, and cannot verify them. I’ve tried my best to merge the lists / translate, but if you can read Japanese, then please see the link below for some additional places.*
*Note that there are at least 3 courses between #38 and #39. The Japanese route seems to favor the coastal route while English guides seem to favor the mountain Mihara route. I haven’t stayed at any of these, and cannot verify them. I’ve tried my best to merge the lists / translate, but if you can read Japanese, then please see the link below for some additional places.*
日本語の歩き遍路一夜宿一覧:38〜39
Mihara Course
[三原ルート] 西ノ谷大師堂
[Mihara Course] Nishitani Daishido at Jizo Pass.
三原キャンプ場 Campground in Mihara.
三原町 のうか民宿 Nouka Minshuku Kazaguruma in Mihara town, ¥3000 for henro, has a bath, washing machine and fireplace
三原町 いきき 0880-46-2203
NPO Ikiiki Mihara Group (Mihara village) has lodging for 2600yen
Huts in area near the dam.
叶崎観音堂(叶崎休息所石段上)Shrine at Kanaezaki. (water, toilet)
中筋川ダム蛍湖 Nakasujigawa Dam (Hotaruko) (Water, Toilet) 6.4 km before Temple 39 (Provided by Henro Soay Chaiwat Phohom, June 2016)

Tsukiyama Shrine course

[月山神 ルート] 月山神社休息所

[Tsukiyama Shrine course]
Tsukiyama Jinju Rest Hut
[月山神 ルート] 大月弘見休息所
[Tsukiyama Shrine course] Otsuki Hiromi Rest Hut
[月山神 ルート] 道の駅すくも野外劇場
[Tsukiyama Shrine course] Michi-no-eki Tosa-shimizu, Sukumo.
東宿毛駅 Waiting room at Higashi-sukumo Station.

平田駅 Waiting room at Hirata Station.
Temple #39延光寺通夜堂 Tsuyado. (No longer available. Provided by Henro Soay Chaiwat Phohom, June 2016)
2016年6月から
#39 ~ #40子安地蔵通夜堂(松尾峠急坂登り口右みかん畑の中)
松尾大師堂跡(松尾峠)
Tsuyado at Matsuo Daishido near Matsuo Pass (bring your own water). (Border of Ipponmatsu-cho and Sukumo City)
Roof near sports complex above Ipponmatsu Onsen. (water, toilet)
Temple #40観自在寺通夜堂 Tsuyado. No futon, but blankets available.
#40 ~ #41へんろ宿柏坂(内海DEあい21前)素泊1500円~
080-6392-9170長尾
Henro accommodation. De-Ai 21 (¥1500)
May be different from the accommodation at De-Ai Ainan Town Office (where you need to just ask permission).大浜休息所(内海トンネル先) Ohama rest huts.須の川キャンプ場 Suno no Kawa park (water, toilet). Onsen nearby.嵐坂ポケットパーク(嵐坂隧道先)Arashisaka Poket Park(?!) Before the Arashisaka Tunnel.Huts after Arashi Post Office.

津島町 熱田温泉(津島やすらぎの里)四阿 足湯

Yasuragi-no-Sato Michi no Eki, Tsushima. Free footbath at entrance to onsen. It’s a new onsen complex, spacious, and has groceries. There is a hut outside in the parking area that looks fairly private. I went to the onsen here. But didn’t stay overnight.てんやわんや王国遍路小屋(松尾トンネル上)
Hut just before Matsuo Tunnel. (water, toilet)Hut at Ishimaru Park, between Lawson and Sunkus near Kitamura River.和霊公園(宇和島駅裏)Warei Park (Close to Uwajima Station)宇和島遍路小屋 Uwajima Henro Hut

道の駅みま (務田駅近く)
Michi-no-eki Mima
. I slept right on top of the closed stall in the middle of the carpark, which was perfectly sheltered people that stop in the middle of the night can’t really see that there’s someone inside. There are also plenty of benches around the corner where people won’t go at night. The restrooms are very clean.伊予宮野下駅 Iyo-Miyanoshita Station
#42 ~ #43佛木寺前四阿 門前商店軒先. Hut in front of #42. Just say hi to the shop owners across the street.

 

善根宿うつみの家 二食付き2500円
0894-62-0227
Zenkonyado Utsumi-no-ie. ¥2500. (inclusive of 2 meals, laundry, bath)

みちびき大師堂 Michibiki Daishido (only one person).
Rest hut just after Hanga Pass.

肘川近く 遍路小屋
After you come down from the mountain road between #42 and #43, about 7km from #43, before crossing the river back onto Route 29, you will see some new henro huts.

卯の町駅 Unomachi Station.
Park near #43.

#43 ~ #44上宇和遍路小屋(焼肉東洋軒駐車場)
札掛ポケットパーク
十夜ヶ橋永徳寺通夜堂
0893-25-2530
Tsuyado at Toyogabashi (Bangai 8). (onsen, supermarket, coin laundry nearby). Can also sleep under bridge (inform the temple). This was the place where Kobo Daishi reportedly slept under a bridge.道の駅うちこMichi-no-eki Uchiko.
神南堂休息所(国道56号手前)お遍路無料宿(長岡トンネル先)
Zenkonyado after Nagaoka Tunnel (Tamiya-san).
Miyata-san (Route 379)千人宿大師堂
Also a Sennin Kinen Daishi Hall
Daishido near bus stop on main road of Hiwata Pass堂山大師堂300円(小田町役場近く小幡食堂で鍵)
Doyama Daishido at Oda-cho. Borrow the key at Kobata udon restaurant. Has kitchen and spacious.真弓休息所露峰休息所(国道道父二峰〒隣)トイレ

 

久万公園トイレ水 Kuma Kogen Park Toilet and water

久万中学バス停 Kuma Kogen Middle School Bus Stop

#44Kuma Kogen Michi-no-Eki (which opened in 2015). It is on Route 33, going through the Town Centre, close to the Town Office.
#44 ~ #45古岩屋荘下売店前 Rest hut in front of Kokumin Shukusha Furuiwasou. (Onsen, coin laundry, toilet).

 

R12ログハウスバス停 Bus stops in the area. They’re enclosed huts.

岩屋寺下休息所 Rest hut at Furusato Ryoko Mura.

Temple #47八坂寺通夜堂 Tsuyado.
#47 ~ #48札始大師堂 089-963-2624
Fudahajime Daishido, ask for permission at the telephone number given (water, toilet). I’ve walked past this and it looks like a nice place.杖の渕公園四阿(管理棟に納め札)Hut at Jou-no-fuchi Park (water, toilet).
Temple #51石手寺通夜堂 Tsuyado. トイレ、水、浴びるThis place is amazing. I won’t say more, but highly recommended. (water, toilet, electricity, blankets and futon, fans) New shower as of 2016 (Update from Henro Soay Chaiwat Phohom)
#51 ~ #52道後温泉 ふじ屋 素泊2000円
080-1750-5454
(Near Dogo Onsen) Fujiya Guesthouse, ¥2000
It’s alright. If not for the laundry and the kitchen, I actually prefer the temple tsuyado (where you can hop to the onsen for a shower).ECO道後 素泊2500円 089-908-5444
Eco Dogo. ¥2500.Dogo Ai guesthouse in arcade near Dogo Onsen, ¥2000, dormitory with kitchen facilites and washing machine 080-3166-7882旅館どうごや 男女別相部屋 温泉朝食付(遍路グッツ提示) 3000円 089-934-0661
Ryokan Dogoya (separate rooms for women and men) Breakfast included. ¥3000Matsuyama Youth Hostel 089-933-6366大山寺門前児童公園(一ノ門南すぐ)Park at Taisho-gun Shrine (water, toilet). I saw this place, which is a flight of stairs above the main road against a small hill, and wasn’t too thrilled, but I have an aversion to sleeping in dark places with single street lamps.
#52Tsuyado. (According to the Shikoku Henro Trail, but have not seen it on any other lists)
#52~ #53Hut in a small park beside the Lawson at the intersection of Roads 39 and 347, close to #52. (Water, Toilet). It’s not on the lists, but I ate breakfast here and it seems like the perfect place to camp or sleep in a sleeping bag. Google Street View has a picture.
#53 ~ #54三穂神社拝殿(堀江〒先)養護院通夜堂(伊予北条駅先)Seems to be a place in front of Iyo Kitajo Station.

 

浅海大師堂(鎌大師道浅海〒先)17:00から
(Asanami) Daishido, get key from next-door shop Hamada Pump / behind a tatami shop, knock on their door after 5pm to get the key. toilet outback and running water out the front. Stop by and ask at Coffee Shop Mikasa

Possible to sleep outside at the hut at the Michi no Eki along Route 196 (Hojo City, Oura) with water and toilet

青木地蔵(太陽石油・今治西消防署裏)
0898-54-2491

円福寺 Tsuyado at Aoki Jizo (warning – this place is supposed to be haunted). (Also the directions in Japanese are a bit strange)

星の浦海浜公園 Hoshinourakaihama Park

#54 ~ #55大谷霊園忠霊塔四阿 Otanirinen Pagoda hut (?)
Temple #56泰山寺通夜堂
Tsuyado. (Shikoku Henro Trail says it’s no longer available.)
Temple #58仙遊寺通夜堂 温泉あり 朝のお勤め
Tsuyado (with shower, onsen and laundry).
#59 ~ #60伊予桜井駅 JR Iyo-Sakurai Station.

 

道の駅今治Huts at Michi-no-eki Imabari (Onsen nearby).

光明寺通夜堂(三芳日切大師向い)
Tsuyado at Koumeiji, near Higiri-Daishi (bathhouse nearby).

尾崎八幡神社(石根〒近く)Hut at Ozaki Yabata Shrine.

横峰寺前(県道147号)遍路小屋
About 7km before #60 on Route 147 there is a new henro hut.

横峰寺登山口四阿(湧き水)Hut at start of mountain path to #60. The toilet is pretty dirty, but there is waterfall with delicious fresh water. You can help yourself to one of the many staffs there, which are unique to the temple.

生木山正善寺通夜堂 Bangai 11. Tsūyadō. (Nihara-cho, Imai). From Shikoku Henro Trail: Dave Bolster says that the caretaker asked for a thousand yen donation.

Temple #60横峰寺休息所 Enclosed plain wooden hut. 2 wide tables and 4 chairs. No blankets, electricity. Toilet facilities nearby. Vending machine. As of 2016. Update provided by Henro Soay Chaiwat Phohom
#60 ~ 61白滝奥の院四阿 トイレ Shirotaki okunoin Hut (Toilet)

 

無人駅 Unattended station.

#63 ~ #64石鎚山駅 JR Ishizuchi Station (water, toilet).
Temple #64前神寺裏駐車場四阿 水トイレは寺で
Hut in the garage (onsen nearby).
#64 ~ #65About 5-10km after #64 there is a rest hut on the left side of the road, with spring water. Try some of the fountains after #64 as the water’s amazing.

 

萩生庵(中萩小学校手前高橋畳店ガレージ)
0897-41-6754
Hagio-an Zenkonyado (Takahashi-san), about 12.5km from #64. Near Hagio post office, run by Takahashi tatami shop, toilet, running water and electricity, shops nearby. Free bento at the Hoka-hoka-tei nearby.

Bujo Park (Saijo-City, Fukutake) possible to sleep on the east side of Kamogawa(river) (hut, water, toilet)

Place to camp about 300m north of the Daily Yamazaki combini at Funaki (water, toilet). Shimin no Mori (Niihama City, Funaki) along Route 11, east of the convenience store.

延命寺四阿
Hut at Enmei-ji (water, toilet). Bangai 12. Niihama City, Doi-cho, Irino

伊予土居駅 Iyo-Doi Station. (I used the washroom at the Hellos Supermarket about 5-10 mins walk away)

Konjaku-an Zenkonyado at Doi Station, ¥1000 (food, shower, laundry provided). 080-3055-1487.
* Note, this number didn’t work when I phoned.

三谷大師堂 (三島公園近く)
Tsūyadō at Mitani Daishi Hall (Iyo Mishima City, Nakasone-cho). 300m west of entrance to Mishima Park.

三島公園四阿 Hut at Mishima Park.

戸川公園(三角寺登山口)Hut at Togawa Park. It’s a spacious rest area that has benches and tables, so can fit quite a few people. It’s also in a quiet neighborhood. (water, toilet)

#65 ~ #66Hirayama Bus Stop. 平山バス停

 

Handa Rest Area.

民宿旅人宿(境目トンネル先より送迎)素泊3000円 0883-76-4727
Minshuku Tabibito-yado, after Sakaime tunnel, make a phone call at Restaurant Suisha, ¥2500, *Note: I didn’t stay here, but this gentleman is legendary amongst henro, and worth the money for a good night’s sleep in the mountains. The numbers and prices are a bit different between an 2014 English Version and 2015 Japanese Version, so I’ve included both.

Bus stop in front of Minshuku Okado (3 tatami) on Rte 192 just before temple #66

Temple #66雲辺寺通夜堂 Tsuyado at Miroku-do just at the base of the stairs to the temple. Toilet outside. It’s an enclosed building and quite nice.
#66 ~ #67Shirafuji Daishido (ask permission from Ando-san), on the trail after Shin-Ike. (Kannonji City, Awai-cho) It is beside a pond, and a very nice building.
#68 ~ #69銭形展望台四阿(琴弾八幡宮上)
Place to stay above #69. Hut at lookout point (toilet).
#70 ~ #71Can camp under the bridge before #70. Sleep outside near the toilets in the parking lot of Motoyama Inari Park 300m just before temple #70.

 

高瀬温泉 お接待 (Takase) Free onsen at Takase Onsen, 1km after turning into Daiichi Hospital.

ふれあいパークみの野外舞台
Hut at Iyadani Onsen
Fureai Park Mino (water, toilet), just under #71. I didn’t notice the hut, but the complex has enough benches, secluded corners and rooftop patios to sleep in. There is a discount coupon (1500 JPY to 1200 JPY) for henro (which are placed in the temple stamp offices roughly from Temple 66). You can sleep in the onsen until they close at midnight.

 Note: Be cautious of the temple lodgings listed below.
I asked at most of the temples in Kagawa whether they had lodging, and despite being listed in both the English and Japanese versions, I was was told point blank that they didn’t. I spoke to henro about this later on and learned down the henro grapevine that Kagawa has had a history of wanting to discourage foreign henro. I’m not sure if the lists are just outdated or whether the above is still true. Either case, I wish you the best in your lodging hunt!
Temple #71弥谷寺通夜堂 Tsuyado.
I was told by the people at the stamp office there is no accommodation, even with the 2015 Japanese list in hand. In 2016, Henro Soay Chaiwat Phohom had the same problem.
Temple #72 ~ #73曼荼羅寺茶堂 0877-63-0072
This is the teahouse on the temple grounds. I was told there was no accommodation.
Temple #75善根宿武本(善通寺寺務所にて紹介を受ける)
0877-62-0111
Ask at the temple office for Zenkonyado by Ms. Takamoto (house with bath). Need to go to the Shukobu office at 15:00 to register to get a key. Priority given to female henro.
#76 ~ #77(Tadotsu-cho) Zenkonyado Mandara. 0877-32-0071. 50m north of liquor manufacturer Kinryo

 

Horie Park behind the cemetary at the end of the street past the train crossing west of #77. (Water, toilet).

#77 ~ #78地蔵堂(宇多津県道194号高架先右)
Jizu-do Utazu Road 194, on the right.

四国健康村 素泊2000円 2食付3000円
0877-49-2600
Shikoku Kenko Mura. For henro if you present your stamp book (or look convincingly travel-worn). It is to sleep in one of the lounge chairs in the onsen complex. If you want a capsule pod, it’s another ¥1500. You can search up the location on Google Maps.善根宿うたんぐら (¥1000 朝食付)(四国霊場78番札所 郷照寺山門より東へ約300m)
0877-85-5172Utangura zenkonyado, 300m east from the gate of Goshoji temple (temple 78), ¥1000. Osettai for breakfast and rice balls for lunch, separate rooms for men and women, bath and laundry machine available.Also a Magnmity Inn (might be the same as Utangura). There are cards for them in the temple offices.
#78 ~ #79遍路小屋46号 Henro Hut 46. Doubles as a footbath. Use shop next door for toilet.
Small hut 500m south of #79 along Route 11
#79Tsuyado (Not on the Japanese list)
*Note: From #79, you can go up to #81, down to #80, and back up to #82.
#80 ~ #81山中四阿 There’s a hut just near the top of the mountain trail that leads to Road 180. No water and toilet though.
*Note: From #80, you can cut to #83 as #81 and #82 are on a plateau
#81Tsuyado (Not on the Japanese list)
#81 ~ #82山中四阿 A big hut (water, toilet) around the Road 180 and 281 intersection. If you ask the shop keepers just down the road, you may be able to use the empty enclosed building just up the hill (from where you came from #81).

 

子供おもてなし処 82根来寺手前300mトイレ有水無

Henro Hut #51.
Built in 2015. Just before Temple #82 on a dirt path. You leave Road 180 and get into a mountain path. (Water, toilet, electricity, carpet flooring, upper loft section). Highly recommend this one.

#80 ~ #83*Note: This is for those who are skipping #81 – #82 on the plateau.
遍照院向いお堂(県道12号高速下)A place to stay under the Number 12 expressway.
小鹿公園(県道12号香東川渡り右折500m)
#82 ~ #83一本木地蔵(香西寺廻りマルナカ鬼無近く)岩田神社(鬼無駅先)
087-881-2922
A Senju Kannon Hall 50m west of Iwata Shrine and east of JR Oninashi station. Get permission at Mukai Const with number above.
#83 ~ #84スローライフなお宿 素泊500円 自炊設備
087-816-1831
Zenkonyado close to temple. Ask at the stamp office.Hut in park at behind Ichinomiya Middle School (water, toilet).
AirBnB
listing close to Ichinomiya Station.
屋島小学校下公園四阿 Hut at Yashima Elementary Park.
#84 ~ #85屋島寺近く四阿 水トイレ
Hut at the back of Temple #84 (water, toilet).Yashima Daiichi Kenko Land, west side of temple 84, near the port, ¥2575八栗ケーブル下軒先Place to stay near Yakuri Cable Station (water, toilet), or below #85.Couchsurfing hosts in TakamatsuAirBnB listings in TakamatsuTen to Sen (Hostel) ¥3000一泊 for dormitory bed 〒760-0053
香川県高松市田町1-11
#85 ~ #86Can stay at Rokuman-ji (unverified, and not on any other list).
#86 ~ #87たいや旅館 個室素泊3000円 朝食500円 志度駅徒歩4分
087-894-0038
Taiya Ryokan. ¥3000 Each Person. Breakfast ¥500. 4 mins walk from Shido Station.造田駅 Zouda Station
#87 ~ #88Sleep outside south of Abe Dental Clinic at Sekisei Tengu (Sanuki City, Nagao Higashi)
亀鶴公園(塚原信号左折)
Kikaku Park. (One of the English lists had Kametsuru Park, but my research says it’s a different reading.)
高地蔵(一心寺先)前山キャムプ場. Maeyama Camp Ground. (water, toilet)道の駅ながお Michi no Eki Nagaoおへんろ交流サロン四阿 Hut in front of Henro Cultural Exchange Salon (water, toilet). Can get a ‘ohenro taishi’ certificate from the salon (open until 4pm).多和小学校前四阿
#88大窪寺(結願の寺)Tsūyadō. (2016 Update: Henro
Soay Chaiwat Phohom confirmed it is no longer available.)
バス待合四阿
Hut at the bus stop (shower, water, toilet) in front of the temple gate.ひだまりむしゲストハウス
個室素泊3000円 朝食500円 夜飯1000円
050-3433-8378
Hidamarimushi, old Japanese style guest house, ¥2000, dinner ¥1000, breakfast ¥500.
#88 ~ 高野山
(Koya-San)
旅の宿ナマステゲストハウス(鳴門渦潮近く) 国際的食事接待有り 2000円
090-7780-1273西村
Namaste Guest House. (Phone Nishimura-san)不二一元アシュラム (鳴門駅・高速鳴門バス停近く)自炊可能 2000円
090-5717-9096 080-1271-4300湯浅Ashram zenkonyado, near Naruto station, ¥2000, tea & coffee provided as osettai, kitchen available.* 両施設共、高野山参拝の折の情報多数あります。 ご利用ください。高野山へは、徳島南海フェリー乗り場から高野山ケーブル山頂まで< こうや好きっぷ2000 >にて2000円で行けます。大阪なんば・関西空港も同様です。3月まで有効、その後は継続の見込み(要確認)

5. Additional Sources

If you’re confident about your smartphone, then I recommend you use the JPilgrim (2016) as it’s the most visually appealing and has complete information that’s the most updated I know of. Also have a look at the map of Henro Houses, which came from another pilgrim’s recommendation.

More recent useful sources

[English] (2016) JPilgrim — Was compiled from Japanese lists as well.
[Japanese] (2018) “Henro Goya” for Henro Rest Huts ヘンロ小屋の案内. Note that the numbers refer to time of construction, not their location.
[English] (2015) OHenro Again – A cool, colour coded list, complete with photos!
[English] (2014) Following the Arrows
[Chinese] (2018) Accommodation Excel Spreadsheet from Henro Clementi: 四國遍路道上的住宿(民宿旅館、宿坊、飯店)— Mostly ¥3000+ as they’re ryokan.

Acknowledgments

[English] (2014) Shikoku Henro Trail Website (2014)
[English] (2009) Henro2009 Blog (by Grace) (2009) – It’s a clean list.
[Japanese] (2018) Sannenan has a Japanese Henro Map that is more detailed about the walking route.
[Japanese] (2009) Unofficial Japanese Camping (Nojuku) List (crowdsourced from walking henro)
[Japanese] (2008) Pilgrim Mihoho-san’s list
[Japanese] Japanese Walking Henro Accommodation Budget Sheets
[Japanese] Page 2 and Page 1 of a Japanese Henro List from a friend


6. Photos for Nojuku Henro, Zenkonyado & Tsuyado

Hagimori-san’s zenkonyado near Nishibun Station, Geisei Village
Hagimori-san’s zenkonyado near Nishibun Station, Geisei Village
Susaki Henro Hut, Kochi
Susaki Henro Hut on Route 23 has 2 power outlets
Henro hut on Shikoku
A henro hut with blankets
Henro Hut on Shikoku
Basic henro hut on Shikoku
Zenkonyado at Tsuro close to Cape Ashizuri
Kanehira-san’s (legendary) Zenkoyado at Tsuro
Zenkonyado at Tsuro close to Cape Ashizuri
Kanehira-san’s Zenkoyado at Tsuro. Laundry machines don’t work.
tea osettai at henro hut 81
Osettai tea for pilgrims outside Henro Hut 51

If you haven’t already, you can check out my Shikoku packing list and my post on cost considerations.

If you would like the occasional update, please leave your e-mail and look out for an e-mail when I have more information up on Shikoku! Thanks!

Wishing you a wonderful journey. Be safe. Okyousukete!
お遍路さんお気をつけてください!

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